Thanksgiving is about tradition. Old habits die hard, and when it comes to cooking the holiday meal, many of us return to what we know, even if that calls for topping sweet potatoes with mini marshmallows or scooping jellied cranberry sauce out of a can.

At the San Francisco Chronicle, returning to what we know means breaking out our "Best Way" recipes -- those we've tested, updated and perfected year after year.

Here are some Thanksgiving fundamentals.

STUFFING

The key to a good stuffing is in the bread, but the effort lies in cutting the vegetables. Most stuffing recipes require chopped onions as a base ingredient, even if you're using a boxed mix. If done properly, this can be very simple.

Cut off the stem end of the onion, trim the root end, then halve the onion from top to bottom. This will give each half a flat side to place on the board.

Leave the root end (which will be tighter than the stem end) intact to hold the onion together, peel off the skin and make vertical cuts along the onion half, spacing them according to the desired thickness of the dice. Don't cut all the way through to the root.

Next make horizontal cuts. With your knife parallel to the cutting board, slice the onion, spacing according to your desired dice size.

Finally, cut the onion cross-wise, releasing the diced onions in each layer as you cut toward the root end. When you've reached the final piece, lay it flat on the cutting board and make cuts in both directions to finish the dice.

WALNUT MUSHROOM STUFFING

• Serves 10

We like the chunkiness of the stuffing when the bread is in 1-inch pieces; for a more uniform texture, cut into smaller pieces. Use quality walnut bread and country French bread from the fresh bread section of specialty markets.

1 pound walnut bread, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 pound sweet French country bread, crusts removed and cut into 1-inch cubes
5 tablespoons unsalted butter plus butter to grease pan
3 cups chopped onion, in 1/2-inch pieces
3 celery stalks, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 pound shiitake or other wild mushrooms, stemmed and quartered
1/2 pound brown or button mushrooms, quartered (or pre-sliced)
Kosher salt to taste
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried
1-1/2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage, or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary, or about 1/4 teaspoon dried
Freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup currants or raisins
3 cups low-sodium chicken, turkey or vegetable broth

Place the bread cubes in a single layer on baking sheets and let dry overnight. Or, place in a 200-degree oven until very dry but not crispy, about 40 minutes. Let cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 350.

Butter a Dutch oven, deep casserole or a 13- by 9-inch glass baking pan. (A deeper casserole yields a moister stuffing.)

Put the bread in a very large bowl.

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and saute until tender but not browned, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour the vegetables over the bread.

Melt 2 more tablespoons butter in the skillet and add the shiitake and brown mushrooms.

Sprinkle with a little salt and the thyme, sage and rosemary. Cook for about 2-3 minutes, until the mushrooms brown slightly, but don't cook long enough for them to begin releasing liquid. Scrape the contents of the pan into the bowl.

Sprinkle 2 teaspoons salt, lots of black pepper, and the currants over the stuffing. Toss together, then slowly drizzle in the broth, tossing well to moisten all of the bread in the bowl. If needed, add enough water so the bread is saturated with liquid.

Place in the prepared pan, dot with remaining butter and cover the pan with foil.

Bake for 30 minutes. Uncover, increase oven temperature to 400 and bake until crusty on top, 15-20 minutes.

MAKING CRANBERRY SAUCE

Sure, you can shake it out of a can. But homemade cranberry sauce couldn't be simpler to prepare, and it can be done well in advance of the holiday.

The fruit is a natural thickener, so 10 minutes in the pot and it's ready to go. Check out the Chronicle classic recipe for Citrus-Cranberry Sauce (below), which blends the berries with orange slices, ginger, cinnamon and clove.

Once the sauce has cooled, it can be stored in the fridge for 3 to 4 days.

CHRONICLE CLASSIC: CITRUS-CRANBERRY SAUCE

• Serves 16

3-inch piece of cinnamon stick
3 whole cloves
3 slices fresh ginger, about 1/8-inch thick
1 orange (skin on), thinly sliced and cut into quarters
4 cups fresh cranberries
1 cup brown sugar

Combine the cinnamon, cloves, ginger, orange pieces and 2 cups water in a 2-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for about 5 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick, cloves and ginger.

Add the cranberries and sugar. Simmer, covered, for about 6-7 minutes, until the cranberries pop and the sauce thickens slightly. Do not overcook.

MAKING MASHED POTATOES

The difference between light, fluffy mashed potatoes and a gummy mess is in the tools. For very smooth potatoes, put the cooked potatoes through a ricer, which forces out the lumps. For a more rustic dish, use a handheld masher. A standing mixer or food processor will over-activate the starch in the potatoes and cause the gumminess.

It's also a good idea to warm up the cream or milk with the butter before adding it to the potatoes; this helps to eliminate lumps and ensure a creamy texture. Taste as you go, adding salt, pepper, butter or liquid as needed.

CHRONICLE CLASSIC: BEST WAY MASHED POTATOES

• Serves 6-8

4 pounds russet
1 tablespoon kosher salt plus salt to taste
1 cup whipping cream
8 tablespoons butter, sliced
Freshly ground pepper to taste

Peel the potatoes and cut into eighths. Place in a large pot and cover with cold water. Add the tablespoon of salt and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Simmer until the potatoes are cooked through, about 12-15 minutes. Drain potatoes in a large colander and shake to remove excess moisture.

Meanwhile, warm the cream in a saucepan over low heat, or pour the cream into a microwave-safe container and microwave for 30 seconds.

Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl and mash with a handheld potato masher until they reach the texture you like. Fold in the butter and cream and season with pepper and more salt, if desired.

Note: To reheat mashed potatoes, place in a microwave-safe bowl, cover with plastic wrap and microwave on high for 2 minutes until heated through.

BLANCHING VEGETABLES

Anything that you can do in advance of Thanksgiving Day is a good idea, and prepping vegetables is a no-brainer. You don't want to pre-cut them too far in advance, as that can affect the flavor, but vegetables like broccoli, Brussels sprouts and green beans require blanching to par-cook them.

Blanching simply means to drop the vegetables in boiling water -- salted is better -- for a few minutes until they turn crisp-tender. Remove them and immediately plunge into ice water, which will stop the cooking. The vegetables will hold at this stage in the fridge for at least a day, until you're ready to finish cooking and seasoning them.

ROLLING OUT PIE DOUGH

Even the most experienced baker can have trouble rolling out a piecrust and getting it into the pan. It's a technique that requires practice.

To roll out our "Best Way" pie dough -- what we use for pumpkin pie -- start with the flattened round of dough that has been chilled in the refrigerator.

Have a pile of flour on hand for dusting, so that nothing sticks. Starting in the center of the dough, make short strokes toward the edges in different directions, turning the dough often as it becomes thinner to maintain a circular shape. Sprinkle the work surface and dough with flour as needed to prevent sticking.

Stop rolling when the dough is about 2-3 inches larger than your inverted pie pan. Place the rolling pin on the edge of the dough that's farthest away from you, and roll the dough around the pin toward you, until you have about half of it on the pin. Gently move the rolling pin over the pie pan, and slowly unroll the dough, draping and centering it over the pan, and gently lift and coax down into the edges.

Trim the excess dough around the outside of the pan, leaving a 1/2- to 1-inch overhang that you can roll under the border to create a thick edge. Decorate the border as desired, either with the tines of a fork or your fingers.

At this point, it's ready to bake and fill.

CHRONICLE CLASSIC: PUMPKIN PIE

• Serves 8-10

This comes from former San Francisco Chronicle recipe editor Fran Irwin, who says her mother made it every Thanksgiving and Christmas.

1-1/2 cups pumpkin puree (freshly cooked or canned), see Note
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1-1/4 teaspoons cinnamon
3 eggs, lightly beaten
3/4 cup evaporated milk (one 6-ounce can)
1 cup whole milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
9- or 10-inch unbaked piecrust (see Best Way recipe, below)
Whipped cream (optional)

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Combine pumpkin, sugar, salt and spices in a large bowl; blend well. Add eggs, both milks and vanilla. Mix thoroughly.

Pour into piecrust. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce oven temperature to 325 and bake for 50-60 minutes longer, until a knife inserted in the center of the pie comes out clean.

Serve at room temperature. If desired, garnish each wedge with lightly sweetened whipped cream.

Note: 1-1/2 cups pumpkin equals about three-quarters of a 1-pound can of pumpkin puree.

BEST WAY PIECRUST

• Yields one 9-inch pie shell

Adapted from the "Fannie Farmer Baking Book," by Marion Cunningham (Alfred A. Knopf, 1984). Use trans-fat-free shortening, substitute lard for the shortening or use all butter. An all-butter crust will have great flavor, but may not be quite as flaky.

1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup vegetable shortening
1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
3 to 4 tablespoons ice water
Additional flour for rolling

Mix together the flour and salt in a bowl. Add the shortening and butter, and work it into the flour with your fingertips or a pastry blender or pulse in a food processor until the mixture resembles fresh breadcrumbs. Sprinkle in the water, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring lightly with a fork after each addition. Use enough water so the dough holds together.

Form the dough into a ball and flatten the top to form a disk. Wrap the dough completely in plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface or between 2 sheets of waxed paper until it is about 1/8-inch thick and 2 to 3 inches larger than your inverted pie pan.

Transfer the dough to the pan, then trim edges to make about a 1/2- to 1-inch overhang. Roll the edge under and crimp decoratively.

If your filling recipe calls for a pre-baked shell, line the pastry with a piece of aluminum foil, shiny-side down. Fill with dried beans, rice or pie weights. Bake in a preheated 425 oven for 15 minutes; remove the foil and beans. Return the pie shell to the oven and bake 10-15 minutes longer, rotating the pan a couple of times, until evenly browned.